Surfing is the sport of riding on the crest of large waves while standing on a narrow, keeled surfboard, usually of light synthetic material.
The art of surfing was a central part of ancient Polynesian culture and predates European contact.
Surfboards were invented in ancient Hawaii, where they were known as papa he'e nalu in the native language. They were usually made of wood from local trees, such as koa, and were often over 15 feet (5 m) in length and extremely heavy.
When Captain James Cook and his crew reached Hawaii in February 1778, on their way from Tahiti to the northwest coast of North America, they were amazed to watch men skimming across the water. It was an almost unbelievable sight, and the explorer duly recorded in his journal the Hawaiians' mastery of surfing.
Lieutenant James King, the commander of The Discovery, was the first person to write about the art of surfing on Hawaii when he was completing the journals of James Cook upon the Captain's death in 1779. Cook wrote: "I could not help concluding this man had the most supreme pleasure while he was driven so fast and so smoothly by the sea."
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HISTORY
The art of surfing was a central part of ancient Polynesian culture and predates European contact.
Surfboards were invented in ancient Hawaii, where they were known as papa he'e nalu in the native language. They were usually made of wood from local trees, such as koa, and were often over 15 feet (5 m) in length and extremely heavy.
When Captain James Cook and his crew reached Hawaii in February 1778, on their way from Tahiti to the northwest coast of North America, they were amazed to watch men skimming across the water. It was an almost unbelievable sight, and the explorer duly recorded in his journal the Hawaiians' mastery of surfing.
Lieutenant James King, the commander of The Discovery, was the first person to write about the art of surfing on Hawaii when he was completing the journals of James Cook upon the Captain's death in 1779. Cook wrote: "I could not help concluding this man had the most supreme pleasure while he was driven so fast and so smoothly by the sea."
Mark Twain was one of the first American writers to document native islanders surfing in Polynesia. In his 1872 travelogue, Roughing It, Twain describes watching them surf, and even attempts it himself. But only once.
Before the 1920s, surfboards were at least 100 pounds and up to 16 feet long.
The first official surfing contest took place at Corona del Mar, California in 1928.
There has been a degree course in Surf Science and Technology at Plymouth University in SW England since 1999.
The record for the longest surf ride is 3hr 55min, set by Panamanian surfer Gary Saavedra on March 19, 2011, riding an artificial wave created by power boat on the Panama Canal in Panama. In doing this, Saavedra also broke the record for the longest distance spent surfing a wave on open water. He followed the wave-creating boat covering the distance of 41.3 miles (66.47 km).
Before the 1920s, surfboards were at least 100 pounds and up to 16 feet long.
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| Duke Kahanamoku and longboard, 1920 |
The first official surfing contest took place at Corona del Mar, California in 1928.
There has been a degree course in Surf Science and Technology at Plymouth University in SW England since 1999.
RECORDS
The record for the longest surf ride is 3hr 55min, set by Panamanian surfer Gary Saavedra on March 19, 2011, riding an artificial wave created by power boat on the Panama Canal in Panama. In doing this, Saavedra also broke the record for the longest distance spent surfing a wave on open water. He followed the wave-creating boat covering the distance of 41.3 miles (66.47 km).
German surfer Sebastian Steudtner set a record for the largest wave surfed, which measured 26.21 m (86 feet). He rode the wave off the coast of Praia do Norte, Nazaré, Portugal, on October 29, 2020. Nazaré is known for its giant waves, which are created by a deep underwater canyon that funnels swells from the Atlantic Ocean. On the day that Steudtner surfed the record-breaking wave, the swell was particularly large and powerful.
The Brazilian surfer Maya Gabeira rode the biggest recorded wave of 2020, becoming the first female surfer with that distinction. The wave, off the coast of Nazaré, Portugal, measured 22.4 m (73.5 ft).
If a plunging wave is not parallel to the beach, the breaking section (or curl) will move laterally across the face of the wave. This is the "tube" that is so highly sought after by surfers (also called a "barrel", a "pit")
FUN SURFING FACTS
If a plunging wave is not parallel to the beach, the breaking section (or curl) will move laterally across the face of the wave. This is the "tube" that is so highly sought after by surfers (also called a "barrel", a "pit")
A person who hangs around a beach pretending to be a surfer but isn't is called a 'hodad'.
A surfer who leads with his right foot is called 'goofy-foot'; leading with the left is 'regular foot'.
In Iceland, surfing season is from May through June—when water temperatures hover around 45°F and icebergs float on the waves.
A surfer who leads with his right foot is called 'goofy-foot'; leading with the left is 'regular foot'.
In Iceland, surfing season is from May through June—when water temperatures hover around 45°F and icebergs float on the waves.
While the Beach Boys sang a lot of songs about surfing, only one member of the group, Drummer Dennis Wilson, could actually surf.
Although born blind, Brazilian surfer Derek Rabelo successfully surfed Oahu's Banzai Pipeline—one of the most difficult surfing spots in the world.
Source Daily Express
Although born blind, Brazilian surfer Derek Rabelo successfully surfed Oahu's Banzai Pipeline—one of the most difficult surfing spots in the world.
Source Daily Express
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