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Showing posts with label Jewellery. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Jewellery. Show all posts

Tuesday, 9 April 2019

Watch

A watch is a personal portable timepiece.

Pixiebay

HISTORY OF WATCHES

Miniature sundials were the earliest form of portable timepieces. The 24-hour dial below was  marked in Roman numerals on the outer band and in Arabic numerals on the inner one.


Watches have been made ever since locksmith and watchmaker Peter Henlein from Nuremberg, Germany invented the mainspring as a means of driving a clock in around 1500. His invention made portable timepieces possible.

These first watches were made in Nuremberg and Augsburg, and were sometimes called Nuremberg Eggs.

The Watch 1505 was crafted by Peter Henlein during the year 1505. It is the oldest watch in the world that still works.

Like clocks the early watches needed a means of maintaining a constant speed as the mainspring ran down. The earliest means was the fusee (a cord wound round a conical barrel).

A pomander watch from 1530 once belonged to Philip Melanchthon

One of the earliest references to what we would perhaps now call a wristwatch was the new year gift received by Queen Elizabeth I from Robert Dudley, the Earl of Leicester, in 1571. It was described as an armed watch, having "in the closing thearof a clocke, and in the forepart of the same a faire lozengie djamond without a foyle, hanging thearat a rounde juell fully garnished with dyamondes and a perle pendaunt."

From the beginning, wristwatches were almost exclusively worn by women. The idea failed to catch on for men, who continued to use pocket watches until the early 20th century.

Although portable clocks appeared in the 16th century, pocket or 'fob' watches only became practicable in the late 17th century, with the advent of the coiled spring drive and balance-spring regulator. Many watches incorporated a repeating mechanism, striking the hours and quarter-hours.

By the 18th century the mechanical mechanism had been perfected by inventors such as Thomas Tompion and Thomas Earnshaw, but throughout the nineteenth century watches remained articles of value.

A mechanical watch movement

The oldest surviving wristwatch (then described as a bracelet watch) is one made in 1806 and given to Joséphine de Beauharnais.

Watches made the short journey from bosom to wrist during the 19th century, due in part to the craze among middle-class women for cycling. Their new, more convenient position made sense and they developed quickly.

The Albert is a short kind of watch named after Prince Albert (1819-1861), husband of the UK's Queen Victoria. Albert originated a fashion for wearing a watch chain across a waistcoat from one pocket hole to the other.

In 1850, at Roxbury, Massachusetts, David Davis, Edward Howard, and Aaron Lufkin Dennison formed a company whose revolutionary business plan was to manufacture the movement parts of watches so precisely that they would become fully interchangeable.

Davis, howard and Dennison's company relocated four years later to Waltham, Massachusetts, to become the Waltham Watch Company, a pioneer in the American system of watch manufacturing.

Watches remained a luxury until 1868, when G. F. Rosskopf, in Switzerland, introduced cheap watches of simplified design for working men. Roskopf was able to present his watch at the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1868 and won a Bronze Medal.

In 1870 Georges Roskopf introduced a second design with a setting mechanism; this watch cost 25 francs.

Wrist watches with analogue faces came into common use in the 1860s, but weren't considered manly, and were mainly worn by women. Many regarded them as a joke and fad.


During the early part of the 20th century, increasing miniaturization, mass production and the need for accurate time keeping for the military, led to the migration of the male watch from the pockets to the wrist.

The Parisian jeweller Cartier is credited with creating the first popular men's wristwatch in 1904 for Brazilian aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont who found it hard to look at a pocket watch while flying. This square-faced watch became so popular it is still in production today in much the same form. Until then wrist clocks were thought of as a decorative item for women.

Wristwatches became essential items of battlefield equipment during World War I as the creeping barrage artillery tactic, developed during the war, required precise synchronization between the artillery gunners and the infantry advancing behind the barrage.

Early wrist watch by Waltham, worn by soldiers in World War I By Museumsfoto - Deutsches Uhrenmuseum

Rolex began trading under that name in 1915. Their first watches were made in London.
1921

Rolex created the first ever waterproof and dustproof wristwatch, the Oyster, in 1926. The watch featured a hermetically sealed case which provided optimal protection for the movement.

Self-winding watches, responding to movements of the wearer's wrist, first appeared in the early 1920s.

One of the earliest Mickey Mouse goods to go on sale was the Mickey Mouse wristwatch. Introduced in 1933, the watch originally retailed at $3.75 and sold at a pace of two million annually.

The Hamilton Watch Company introduced the first electric watch on January 3, 1957. This had no mainspring, the mechanism being kept in motion by the mutual attraction of a permanent magnet and an electromagnet, which pushed the balance wheel.

Electronic movements, also known as quartz movements, have few or no moving parts, except a quartz crystal which is made to vibrate by the piezoelectric effect. (An electric charge that accumulates in certain solid materials such as crystals, in response to applied mechanical stress). The first quartz watch to be manufactured was the Seiko 35 SQ Astron, which hit the shelves on December 25, 1969.

Quartz movement of the Seiko Astron, 1969  By Museumsfoto - Deutsches Uhrenmuseum

Watches finally went digital in the 1970s when the Hamilton Company developed the Pulsar, which sported lights in place of hands.

The first LCD watches were marketed as early as 1972 in which all moving parts are dispensed with. The time measurement is done by a quartz crystal oscillator linked to digital counting and display circuits. The time is usually indicated by liquid crystal display (LCD).

A Pulsar LED quartz watch (1976) By Alison Cassidy

In 1999, Samsung launched the world's first watch phone, the SPH-WP10. It had 90-minutes of talk time with an integrated speaker and microphone.

FUN WATCH FACTS

In most advertisements, the time displayed on a watch is 10:10. This is because the 10:10 position is symmetrical, and the human brain tends to appreciate symmetry and orderliness. Also the 10:10 hands look “happy” due to the fact that the hands look like a smile.

Rolex is the largest single luxury watch brand with estimated revenues of around £1.75 billion.

A Swiss watchmaker created a series of 400 $10,000 watches that contain a strand of hair from Napoléon Bonaparte.

Wearing a Casio F-91W, a cheap digital watch sold around the world, was used as evidence to keep detainees at Guantánamo Bay.


NASA has special wristwatches that keep Mars time for employees working with the rovers.

Sources Europress Encyclopedia, The Independent

Wednesday, 20 September 2017

Ruby

Ruby is one of the traditional cardinal gems, together with amethyst, sapphire, emerald, and diamond.

Natural ruby crystals from Winza, Tanzania By Rob Lavinsky, iRocks.com 

Synthetic rubies were invented in 1837 by fusing potash alum with chromium.

The 40th wedding anniversary was first associated with rubies in 1937 in a marketing priority by American jewellers.

The  famous 4lb, 8500 carat Liberty Bell Ruby, found in East Africa in the 1950s was stolen from a jewelry store in Wilmington, Delaware on November 1, 2011. The ruby is a 5-inch high sculpture made from one of the largest mined rubys in the world. It is valued at over $2 million.

The ruby was stolen in a daring heist. Four men entered the jewelry store and tied up the employees. They then used hammers to smash the glass cases and steal the ruby and other jewelry. The men escaped and have never been caught.

The Liberty Bell Ruby Wikipedia

The price-per-carat record for rubies was set during a sale of Elizabeth Taylor's jewelry collection. A ring set with a 8.24 carat gem sold for more than $4.2 million - $512,925 per carat.

The record was broken in 2015, a Cartier 25.59-carat Burmese ruby sold for a record £19.6 million ($30.33 million) at an auction in Geneva.

The largest ruby ever mined is the "Estrela de Fura," which is Portuguese for "Star of Fura." It was discovered in July 2022 at the Montepuez ruby mine in Mozambique. The Estrela de Fura weighs 101.23 carats in the rough, making it the largest gem-quality ruby ever discovered. It is also one of the most transparent rubies ever found.

The Estrela de Fura was cut into a 55.22-carat gemstone, which is now the largest and most valuable ruby ever sold at auction. It was sold for a record-breaking $34.8 million at Sotheby's in New York in June 2023.

Wisdom – and a wife of notable character – are more valuable than rubies, according to the book of Proverbs in the Bible.

A ruby pendant

Rubies are usually pink or blood red. The color of a ruby is due to the element chromium.

Rubies and sapphires are scientifically the same mineral, just different colors. Rubies are the red variety and sapphires encompasses any other color, with blue being the most popular and common.

The word ruby comes from ruber, Latin for red.

A naturally occurring ruby crystal

The Crown worn by Elizabeth II, has a Ruby which has been in the Crown's possession for 700 years and worn by King Henry V in the famous Battle of Agincourt of 1415.

Source Daily Mail.

Monday, 14 August 2017

Ring

WEDDING RINGS

Women have worn wedding rings since ancient Egyptian times but men only started doing so in the early 1900s.


Wedding rings are worn on the third finger of the left hand because the Romans believed there was a vein in the finger, referred to as the 'Vena Amoris' or the 'Vein of Love' which was said to be directly connected to the heart.

A ring has been included in wedding ceremonies since the 12th century. Pope Innocent III ordained that marriages had to take place in church and that a wedding ring should be exchanged during the service.


Old names for the ring finger include leech finger, physician finger and wedding finger.

The "tradition" of spending several months salary on an engagement ring was a marketing campaign created by De Beers in the 1930's. Before World War II, only 10% of engagement rings contained diamonds. By the end of the 20th Century, 80% did.

Men wearing wedding rings was not common until World War II, when soldiers would wear a ring to remind them of their love back home. After the war it became mainstream for men to wear a wedding ring.

While on Apollo 16, Ken Mattingly lost his wedding ring—another astronaut caught it days later as it floated out a door during a spacewalk.

Diogo jumped up on a metal perimeter fence to salute the travelling fans in celebration of setting up his team's third goal for Jean Beauséjour in the 87th minute of their 4-1 away win over Schaffhausen in the Swiss Super League


RINGS IN HISTORY

During the Middle Ages, knights wore a ring which they would use to stamp a bill instead of paying cash.

Sailors used to make rings for their fingers out of gold or silver coins by cutting out the middles.

Queen Victoria's engagement ring was shaped like a serpent. Prince Albert designed the ring by himself. During this time, serpents were a popular symbol of love. They are also an ancient Roman symbol for everlasting love.

Mood rings were a short-lived fad of the mid-1970s, which were especially popular with young girls. They featured fake gemstones that were filled with liquid crystals. These special crystals were thermochromic, which meant they changed colors based upon the temperature of the finger of the wearer. The ring came with a color chart that indicated the person's supposed mood.

A mood ring shown face front. Note the band of color change.

FUN RING FACTS

The study of seals and signet rings is called sphragistics.

Elvis Presley was buried with his favourite diamond ring.

The £1.7million ‘Peacock Ring’ holds the record for most cut diamonds set in a single ring. Designed by Indian-based Savio Jewellery, it boasts 3,827 diamonds and weighs more than 50g. The diamonds used in the ring have a combined carat value of 16.5.

Sunday, 15 January 2017

Pearl

The word pearl derives from a Latin word for the thigh-bone, which had been given to a thigh-shaped mollusc.

PEARLS IN HISTORY

Cleopatra once gave a lavish banquet for Mark Antony at Alexandra. The Roman expressed his surprise at the outlay involved. Cleopatra, to impress him further, took a pearl eardrop and dissolved it in vinegar to prove she could consume a fortune in a single meal.

Queen Elizabeth I of England liked to wear pearls the size of beans as she liked to be thought of as the goddess of the moon. (The moon is shaped like a pearl).


After many unsuccessful attempts, July 11, 1893, is recorded as the date on which Kokichi Mikimoto created the first cultured pearl. Mikimoto created it on the Japanese island of Ojima, which became a centre for pearl production and had its name changed to Mikimoto Pearl Island.

Nikola Tesla could not stand the sight of pearls, to the extent that he refused to speak to women wearing them.

The Pearl of of Lao Tzu weighing 14lb, was discovered in the Philippines on May 7, 1934 and is about the size of a basketball. For many decades it was the world’s largest pearl. Its most recent valuation is $75 million (£51 million).

A Philippines fisherman found the world's largest pearl in a giant clam and kept it under his bed for ten years. It was revealed in August 2016 when his wooden shack burned down. The pearl is 30 cm wide (1 ft) and 67 cm long (2.2 ft) and weighs 75lb (34kg). It is valued at $117 million (£80million).

FUN PEARL FACTS

Pearls come in eight shapes: round, semi-round, button, drop, pear, oval, baroque and circled.

By MASAYUKI KATO - Wikipedia Commons

Natural pearls form from a substance called nacre, the substance that lines the inner sides of an oyster's shell. It is produced by a mollusc in response to damage or injury.

Pearls are made mainly of calcium carbonate.

Pearls cannot be found in edible oysters. Pearl producing oysters come from the genus Pinctada; edible ones are of the Ostreidae family.

A pearl being extracted from an akoya pearl oyster.

Only about one in 10,000 wild oysters contains a pearl. Of those, only a small percentage achieve the size, shape and color desirable to the jewellery industry.

Natural pearls form from a substance called nacre, which is produced by a mollusc in response to damage or injury.

Cultured pearls are formed by inserting small beads and a piece of donor mantle tissue into the reproductive organ of a oyster, thus tricking the mollusc into producing nacre.

The development of cultured pearls ruined the economy of Kuwait for a time. The Middle Eastern country was heavily dependent on pearl fishing before oil was discovered there.

Real pearl necklaces and bracelets have knots tired between them to keep them from damaging each other. Most fakes do not.

Source Daily Express

Tuesday, 24 March 2015

Gems

It was the Ancient Greeks who began to decide which gems are precious and semi-precious. This continued in other cultures.

In modern times, the precious stones are considered to be diamond, emerald, ruby and sapphire and emerald, with all other gemstones being semi-precious.

Three and four centuries ago, many people believed that gems could heal the sick or prevent the disease in the first place. Topaz stones for instance were worn by asthmatics and the mentally deranged were given jewellery containing sapphire stones to relieve their symptoms.

Helenite is a green obsidian-like gemstone created accidentally after the 1980 Mount St. Helens eruption. Local timber workers were using acetylene torches to free equipment when they noticed that the heat was transforming the volcanic ash and rock into an alluring green compound.

Peridots are the only gems that have been found in meteorites.

Here is a list of songs with jewelry or precious stones in the title. 

Friday, 16 January 2015

Fabergé

The House of Fabergé is a jewellery firm founded in 1842 in St. Petersburg, Russia, by Gustav Faberge, using the accented name "Fabergé"

Gustav was followed by his son Peter Carl Faberge, until the firm was nationalized by the Bolsheviks in 1918.

The firm has been famous for designing elaborate jewel-encrusted Fabergé eggs for the Russian Tsars and a range of other work of high quality and intricate details. They created a total of 56 eggs from 1885 to 1917, which would have been worth around £6,000 each (£6.6million $10.5 million today)

In 1924, Peter Carl's son Alexander with his half-brother Eugène opened Fabergé et Cie in Paris, making similar jewellery items.

In 1937, the brand name "Fabergé" was sold and then re-sold in 1964 to cosmetics company Rayette Inc., which changed its name to Rayette-Fabergé Inc.

While Lenin tried to preserve the cultural artifacts, Stalin allegedly paid American oil billionaire Armand Hammer for his services as a Soviet agent in Faberge eggs.

In the movie Octopussy, James Bond swaps a real Fabergé egg with a fake containing surveillance equipment. The egg in the film was the actual Coronation Egg.

In 2007, a gold and pink Fabergé egg with a clock on its face fetched a record £9m ($14.5) at Christie’s in London.

The House of Fabergé made about 50 ornate eggs, 43 have survived to this day.

Sources Daily Mail, Wikipedia

Sunday, 23 November 2014

Earring

Back in the seafaring days of wooden ships many sailors used to wear gold earrings so that they could afford a proper burial when they died.

Centuries ago many pirates pieced their ears and wore earrings because they believed it improved their vision.

According to the most reliable portrait, William Shakespeare wore a gold earring in his left ear.

Lynda Bird (b 1944), daughter of Lyndon Johnson, wears earrings made up of two tiny cages, each containing a live bird. 

Sunday, 12 October 2014

Diamond

DIAMONDS IN HISTORY

Diamonds were first discovered in the riverbeds of the Golconda region of India over 4,000 years ago.

The Persians thought that diamonds were made by the devil and considered them cursed.

The Romans and Greeks believed that diamonds were tears cried by the Gods or the splinters of falling stars.

In Roman times diamonds were worn only by men. Soldiers believed they were the hardened tears of the gods and wore them around their necks in battle to bring courage.

During the Black Death, English aristocrats wore diamonds believing they could keep the disease at bay.

During the Middle Ages, only men wore diamonds, as a symbol of their courage and virility. Anne of Burgundy was the first woman to receive a diamond engagement ring. It was given to her by Maximilian I of Germany in 1477.

Louis XIV of France once received the Siamese Ambassador in Versailles' Hall of Mirrors, wearing a fur coat entrusted with diamonds valued at 1/6th the cost of Versailles.

Scientists only realized that diamonds are the crystallized form of carbon in 1772 when Antoine Lavoisier made the discovery.

The Koh-I-noor diamond, set in a Maltese Cross in the Queen Mother’s Crown, was presented to Queen Victoria as a personal gift in 1850.  Its name means ‘mountain of light’ in Urdu.

Originally 186 carats, the Koh-I-noor diamond was recut on Prince Albert’s orders to improve its brilliance and is now 106 carats.

The Star of South Africa was found by a Griqua shepherd boy in 1869 on the banks of the Orange River. The original stone, before cutting, weighed 83.5 carats (16.70 g or half an ounce). The finding of this large diamond spurred the rush by many prospectors to this new diamond field, known as New Rush but later to be known as Kimberley.

The shepherd boy who found the Star of South Africa sold it for 500 sheep, ten oxen and a horse, and it was later bought by the Earl of Dudley. It’s been sold only once since — in Geneva in 1974 for 1.6 million Swiss Francs, equivalent to around £225,300.

The world's largest diamond ever, the Cullinan was found on January 26, 1905 at the Premier Mine near Pretoria in South Africa during a routine inspection by the mine's superintendent. It weighed 1.33 pounds. The rough stone was cleaved into 9 large stones and 96 smaller stones.

Identical reproduction, in resin, of the Cullinan diamond, the largest diamond ever found,

The two biggest white diamonds in the world can both be found in the Tower of London among the British Crown Jewels. They were cut from the Cullinan diamond, which was presented to King Edward VII after being mined in South Africa. He exclaimed on seeing it: "I should have kicked it aside as a lump of glass if I had seen it on the road."

When the Cullinan diamond was transported from South Africa to England, an elaborate and secure journey by sea was publicized - as a rouse. The real diamond was simply posted by ordinary registered mail.

The South-African based De Beers Consolidated Mines launched a campaign in 1939 to promote further the tradition of diamond engagement rings. The N.W. Ayer agency of Chicago came with the line “A diamond is forever”.

The first synthetic diamonds were created in 1954 by one Howard Tracy Hall.

The Hope Diamond is one of the most famous jewels in the world, with ownership records dating back almost four centuries. The jewel is believed to have originated in India, where the original (larger) stone was purchased in 1666 by French gem merchant Jean-Baptiste Tavernier as the Tavernier Blue.

Ian Fleming wrote his James Bond story Diamonds are Forever at his Goldeneye estate in Jamaica, inspired by a Sunday Times article on diamond smuggling. The book was first published on March 26, 1956.

On November 10, 1958 the merchant Harry Winston donated the Hope Diamond, the "most famous diamond in the world", to the Smithsonian Institution.

Hope Diamond

The Strawn-Wagner, unearthed in Arkansas n 1990 by Shirley Strawn and now on permanent display at the Crater of Diamonds visitor center, is considered the first perfect diamond ever discovered.

Nicole Kidman's necklace in Moulin Rouge features 1,308 diamonds and is the most expensive piece of jewelry ever made for a movie.

Jaguar fitted $300k diamonds to fronts of two of their Formula 1 cars in the 2004 Monaco Grand Prix, to advertise Ocean's Twelve. One of the cars crashed on the first lap, and the diamond, uninsured due to the nature of the stunt, was, and still remains, lost.

The Harvard-Smithsonian Center for Astrophysics announced on February 13, 2004, the discovery of the universe's largest known diamond, white dwarf star BPM 37093. The cosmic diamond is a chunk of crystallised carbon, 4,000 km across, some 50 light-years from the Earth in the constellation Centaurus. Astronomers named this star "Lucy" after The Beatles' song "Lucy In The Sky In Diamonds."


FUN DIAMOND FACTS

The Crater of Diamonds State Park is a 911-acre Arkansas state park in Murfreesboro, Arkansas, in the United States. The park features a 37.5-acre (15.2 ha) plowed field, the world's only diamond-bearing site accessible to the public. Visitors can keep whatever gems they find, and over 31,000 diamonds have been found since it became a state park in 1972.

A brilliant cut diamond is considered perfectly shaped when it has 58 facets.

The richest diamond mine in the world is the Jwaneng diamond mine in Botswana. It is estimated to have produced over $120 billion worth of diamonds since it began operations in 1982.  The mine is located in the Kalahari Desert, about 120 kilometers (75 miles) west of the capital city of Gaborone. It is operated by Debswana, a joint venture between the government of Botswana and De Beers, the world's largest diamond company.

Russia has a vast diamond field containing enough to supply global markets for another 3000 years. The field was discovered in the 1970s underneath 35 million year-old asteroid crater in Siberia.

China creates so much synthetic diamonds that are identical to real diamonds that prices of diamonds are being driven down. De Beers has created a university to study how to identify "natural" and "man made" diamonds because no experts can tell the difference.

There are enough diamonds in existence to give everyone on the planet a cupful.

It rains diamonds on Saturn and Jupiter.

While colored diamonds get their color from chemical impurities absorbing light- such as yellow diamonds containing nitrogen and blue diamonds containing boron- pink diamonds have no traces of impurities, thus baffling scientists and geologists as to how they have a pink color.

Out of all colored diamonds, red diamonds are the rarest

The diamond is the only gemstone composed of just one chemical element, carbon. Although crystal-clear, it is black when reduced to dust.


Diamonds burn if you heat them somewhere between 1,400 to 1,600 degrees Fahrenheit.

A diamond is the hardest natural substance on earth, but if it is placed in an oven at the right temperature, it will simply vanish.

A diamond will shatter if hit with a hammer. Hardness means resistance to scratching; toughness is a different property.

Here is a list of songs with the word "Diamond" in the title

Sources Daily Mail, Dictionary of Phrase & Fable by Nigel Rees

Sunday, 17 August 2014

The Crown Jewels

The Crown Jewels are the regalia and vestments worn by the sovereign of the United Kingdom during the coronation ceremony and at other state functions.

The Imperial State Crown of the United Kingdom
           
The earliest known use of regalia in England dates to between 200 and 150 B.C. Inside the tomb of the "Mill Hill Warrior" was a bronze crown, a sword, a scabbard, a brooch and a ceremonial shield.

King Edward I lived at the Palace of Westminster, but in 1297 he moved the Crown Jewels from Westminster to the Tower of London.

When King Richard II got married in 1380, he had to pawn the Crown Jewels to pay for the wedding.

Henrietta Maria, wife of Charles I, pawned the Crown Jewels to raise money for arms during the English Civil War.

When Oliver Cromwell became the Lord Protector of England after the execution of Charles I, he found England to be in a desperate financial state because of the Civil War. To raise funds the 'Act for the sale of the personal estate of the King,Queen and Prince' was put forward. The most valuable of these objects was the Tudor State Crown, the royal crown of gold inlaid with 344 gems worn by monarchs including Henry VIII, Mary I, Elizabeth I and Charles I, valued at £1,100.

Thomas Blood was a parliamentarian during the English Civil War, who was deprived of his estate at the Restoration. On May 9, 1671, with three accomplices he made an infamous attempt to steal the Crown Jewels of England from the Tower of London. Having befriended the jewel keeper, Blood arranged a private viewing, during which time the men made off with the the crown, orb and sceptre. They were pursued and captured; but Blood was pardoned by King Charles II, who took him to court and restored his estate.

Thomas Blood

St. Edward's Staff, is a 4'6" gold staff that is part of the Crown Jewels. However, its purpose has been forgotten since medieval times, so during coronations it is just carried into Westminster Abbey and laid on the altar until the ceremony is over

The Timur ruby, a 361-carat gemstone presented to Queen Victoria in 1851 by the East India Company, has been part of the Crown Jewels since 1853, when it was used to make a necklace.


Sunday, 6 October 2013

Button

Prehistoric peoples held their garments in place with thorns and with cords made from animal sinews. Later, with the introduction of metals loose flowing robes were fastened with a girdle or a pin.

The Ancient Egyptians used cloth ties and broaches or buckles to hold their clothes together.

Buttons have been known to exist as far back as the Bronze age when they were worn as ornamentation. They were used to decorate belts and other metal objects.

In the tombs of Egypt and of Mycenae in Greece ornamental buttons of gold, glass, and earthenware from 2,500 to 4,000 years old have been found.

The ancient Greeks and Etruscans fastened their tunics at the shoulders with buttons and loops.

In Anglo-Saxon times buttons were unknown. Instead of "buttoning up" their coats, men fastened them by means of a ribbon which they pulled through holes in the lapel introduced for this very purpose.

In medieval Europe, skewers of wood, bone, ivory, silver, gold, or brass were used for fastening clothing, elaborately fashioned for persons of wealth and simply made of wood for common people. Expensive buttons were also made of copper and its alloys. The metalsmith frequently embellished such buttons with insets of ivory, tortoiseshell, and jewels. 

Before the 13th century, the use of buttons to fasten your clothing was taken as an indication that you led a loose life.


It took the buttonhole to popularise the button in medieval Europe. Buttonholes were invented by Moorish tailors as a means of fastening garments and adopted in Europe in the 13th century. Then buttons became so prominent that in some places sumptuary laws were passed putting limits on their use. The earliest evidence comes from 13th-century German sculptures, which show tunics featuring six buttons running from neck to waist.

Buttons in fourteenth century Europe were hand-made in beautiful shapes and colors. They were both costly and decorative and used to boost the ego and attract attention. John Brandon, for example, who died in 1384, was shown with 40 buttons on the sleeve of his undervest alone.

There was a button mania in the late Middle Ages, resulting, in some outfits adorned with thousands of buttons, all of them with accompanying buttonholes. Dressing and undressing became a laborious process, but created a niche for the employment of professional dressers.

Francis I of France (1494-1547) had 13,600 gold buttons on a single coat, which he wore when meeting King Henry VIII of England,

In the 15th or 16th century someone discovered that a loop slipped over a button, or a button pushed through a slit in the cloth, made a better fastener for the close-fitting garments that were coming into style. For some time, however, the chief use continued to be ornamental.

The asymmetrical fastening of jackets of the wrapover style came into fashion in China during the 15th and 16th centuries and was worn by men and women, royalty and peasants. It was the material and the buttons that showed rank. Peasants wore rough cloth fastened with anything that came to hand while the emperor wore silk and furs fastened with jewels.

King Louis XIV of France had a coat with 123 diamond buttons and the buttonholes themselves were embellished with diamonds. 

In the 1700's metal buttons were used and button covering was created. Metal threads were wound about a button in intricate patterns. Miniature scenes were painted on ivory or glass buttons. Some buttons were engraved and inlaid with silver.

Frederick the Great organised the buttons on soldiers' coat sleeves being sewed on the top sides of their sleeves. This was to ensure that the soldiers would scratch their faces open every time they tried to wipe their noses on their tunics.

In the middle of the 18th century, Matthew Boulton, the English manufacturer and partner of James Watt, introduced the bright, costly, cut-steel button, which was made by attaching polished steel facets to a steel blank. Matthew Boulton built the Soho manufactory near Birmingham. The factory produced small metal articles such as gilt and silver buttons and buckles.

The waistcoat of Toussaint Louverture, liberator of Haiti (1743-1803), had 18 buttons that were decorated with reproductions of London-based Italian artist Agostino Brunias's paintings.

Men's and women's buttons are placed on opposite sides because, historically, men have always dressed themselves and are mostly right handed. Women who wore ornate clothing had maids to help them dress and it was easier for the maids to fasten with the buttons on the left.

In 1884, German immigrant J.F. Boepple, noticing the abundance of freshwater mussels in the nearby Mississippi River,, founded a pearl button company in Muscatine, Iowa. Using machines to punch buttons from mussel shells, he created products that gleamed like pearls. Boepple’s factory grew to become the largest manufacturer of pearl buttons in the world, and from that time forward, Muscatine was known as "The Pearl Button Capital of the World". 

During World War II, Canada gave out buttons to people who tried to enlist but were refused due to medical reasons to show their willingness to fight.

During World War II, the British military worked with MI9, the secret escape and evasion department, to create hidden survival tools for Allied aircrew in case they were shot down or captured. One clever trick involved RAF buttons that doubled as compasses. Two specially made brass buttons could be detached from the uniform and fitted together to form a tiny working compass. The top button had a concealed magnetized needle, and when balanced correctly with the second piece, it would point north.


Founded in 1938, the National Button Society recognizes button collecting as an organized hobby. The society established National Button Day, which is celebrated on November 16th each year to honor the function of buttons and the hobby of button collection.  

Japanese male students often confess their love to a female by giving them the second button from the top of their school uniform. The second button is the one closest to the heart.

Today, 60 per cent of the world's buttons are made in one Chinese town, Qiaotou, which churns out 15bn buttons a year.

1 in 75,000 people suffer from koumpounophobia, the fear of buttons.

Sources The Daily Mail, Encyclopedia Britannica, The Independent, Compton's Interactive Encyclopedia © 1998 The Learning Company, Inc.

Tuesday, 1 May 2012

Bead

Beads are small perforated objects, usually spherical, that may be strung into necklaces and bracelets or attached to clothing or furnishings. 

The first beads were probably plant seeds. The earliest gold beads imitated seed shapes, perhaps recalling the humble origins of beads. 

Seashells were strung together as early as 30,000 years ago. Shell necklaces have been discovered great distances from the sea, possibly indicating their significance as trading items.

In prehistoric Siberian settlements ivory taken from mammoths was carved into tiny beads related in form to the so-called Venus figurines produced by prehistoric cultures. Such beads may have been made to encourage fertility.

Among types of stone favored for beads by ancient peoples, turquoise occupied a special place. It was valued as a charm against bad fortune. The popularity of turquoise may have led to the earliest manufacturing of beads.

The history of glassmaking is closely tied to that of bead manufacture. The first blue glass beads appeared in Europe during the late Stone Age, though their origin is unknown.

The oldest examples of glass are Egyptian beads dating from 12,000 BC.

 Ancient Egyptian jewelry beads and amulet Penn Museum by Mary Harrsch

The Phoenicians perfected glass bead manufacture and developed fancy beads with "eyes" suggesting comic human faces or animal heads.

Metal beads, especially of gold, were made in Crete in shapes such as lilies and roses in about 1500 BC, although gold beads had existed in Mesopotamian and Egyptian civilizations long before.

Amber beads, made from fossilized tree resin, were especially popular among the Ancient Greeks.

Brilliantly colored millefiori beads were developed in Phoenicia by about 300 BC.


American Indians and tribal Africans wore strings of small beads and embroidered beads on their clothes and bags as, for example, the skin tunics of the Inuit (Eskimo) and the aprons of the Ndebele. 

Beads were often used for currency as, for example, shell wampum on the east coast of North America and Aggrey beads from Ghana. 

Originally in America and Africa, the beads were made from natural materials such as shell; subsequently they were replaced by glass beads obtained from European traders. 

The use of knotted robes and later prayer beads as an aid to prayer were used by Eastern Christian monks in  about the fourth century and the practice of reciting 50 or 150 Ave Marias had become generally familiar by the thirteenth century. The English word bead comes from an old Germanic word meaning “to pray”.


Sources Funk & Wagnalls Encyclopedia,  Compton's Interactive Encyclopedia © 1998 The Learning Company, Inc

Saturday, 20 August 2011

Amber

Amber is fossilized tree resin (not sap), which has been appreciated for its color and natural beauty since Neolithic times. It is usually yellow or yellow-brown in color. 

Raw unpolished baltic amber. By Msamber 

Archaeologists have found amulets made of amber dating back as far as 11,000 BC.

The ancient Italic peoples of southern Italy used to work amber. 

Found in either round, irregular lumps, grains, or drops, amber is slightly brittle and emits an agreeable odor when rubbed. 

Extinct and extant species of insects are sometimes found encased in samples of amber. 

When amber is rubbed with cloth, it attracts light objects, such as feathers. The effect, first noticed by the ancient Greek philosopher Thales of Miletus, is due to acquisition of negative electric charge, hence the adaptation of the Greek word for amber, elektron, for electricity.

Amber is used as an ingredient in perfumes, as a healing agent in folk medicine, and as jewellery.



About 90% of the world's amber production comes from the Amber Coast of the Sambia peninsula on the Baltic Sea.

Sources Wikipedia, Hutchinson Encyclopedia © RM 2011. Helicon Publishing is division of RM.