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Wednesday 25 July 2018

Tailor

A tailor is a person whose business is to cut out and make outer garments, especially for men.

A tailor fitting a customer. By Rprakash1782 

The word "tailor", which according to the Oxford Dictionary first appeared in 1297, comes from a French word—tailler—meaning "to cut."
HISTORY

Tailoring has its origins in the trade of linen armorers, who fitted men with padded linen undergarments to protect their bodies against the chafing of chain mail and later plate armor.

Buttonholes were invented by Moorish tailors as a means of fastening garments. They were adopted in Europe in the 13th century.

By the late 13th century a tailor was considered a legitimate occupation. In France, the Tailleurs de Robes received a royal charter in 1293.The London Guild of Taylors and Linen Armorers were granted royal arms six years later.

One of the four surviving copies of the Magna Carta, written on dried sheepskin in Latin, was discovered in a London tailor’s shop in the 16th century.

The first English-language tailoring manual was The Taylor’s Complete Guide, which was published in 1796.

Interior of a Tailor's Shop - anonymous painter, c. 1780

The first display windows in shops were installed in the late 18th century in London, where levels of conspicuous consumption were growing rapidly. Retailer Francis Place was one of the first to experiment with this new retailing method at his tailoring establishment located at 16 Charing Cross, where he fitted the shop-front with large plate glass windows. Each of the panes of glass in the shop front cost him three pounds.

The ready-to-wear industry began to develop in the early years of the 19th century. Tailors would cut out several copies of one garment and farm them out to women to sew. At first ready-to-wear clothes fitted poorly. But by the middle of the century their quality had improved.

Before the adoption of the sewing machine in tailor shops, some garments required more than one tailor to work on them at the same time.

The first functioning sewing machine was invented by a French tailor Barthélemy Thimonnier in 1830. His device was the first such machine to replicate sewing by hand and enabled tailors to work on garments on their own.

Unable to attend school, young Andrew Johnson was hired out to a tailor at an early age. He learned the trade but was so unhappy at his job that he refused to serve out his apprenticeship. He later became a successful tailor running a shop in Rutledge, Tennessee.

Andrew Johnson is the only tailor ever to become president. After he's moved into the White House, Johnson would typically stop by a tailor shop to say hello and would wear only the suits that he made himself.  His home and tailor's shop, is today part of the Andrew Johnson National Historic Site.

A replica of Andrew Johnson's tailor shop. Brian Stansberry

Jacob Davis was a tailor who often bought bolts of cloth from the Levi Strauss & Co. wholesale house. In 1872, Davis wrote to Strauss asking to partner with him to patent and sell clothing reinforced with small metal rivets as well as the usual stitching.
Levi accepted Davis's offer, and their Levi Strauss blue jeans with copper rivets were sold at $13.50 per dozen.
FUN TAILOR FACTS

Bespoke tailoring is clothing made to an individual buyer's specifications by a tailor. It is called "custom tailoring" in the United States and Hong Kong.

The heart of the "bespoke tailoring" trade in the United Kingdom is Savile Row, a street in Mayfair, central London


The term "bespoke" is understood to have originated in Savile Row when cloth for a suit was said to "be spoken for" by individual customers.

Henry Poole is credited as being the "Founder of Savile Row". He moved his tailoring business to 32, Savile Row in 1846, following the death of its founder James Poole. 

Henry Poole & Co on Savile Row, London (2014). By Gryffindor 

When Kathryn Sargent opened her tailors in April 2016, it was the first time in 213 years that London's Savile Row had a female name above one of its master tailor shops.

Tailors' chalk is not real chalk. It is really talc (magnesium silicate). Tailors use it to draw on material when they are making clothes.

Source JournalAlabamachanin

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